The Venetian hinterland boasts a network of 12 forts, known collectively as the Entrenched Camp of Mestre. These fortifications were planned as an integration of the ancient defensive system developed by the Republic from the fourteenth century onwards, with the aim of containing threats from the sea. But, after the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, when the territory passed under Austrian control, and priorities changed, a landward invasion by the French was most to be feared. Consequently, work on the Fortress of Marghera was prioritised, but when the French took over from 1806-1815, they continued working on the fort, until the Austrians returned. After the creation of the Kingdom of Italy, it was felt necessary to reinforce the defences around the Fortress of Marghera, which led to the construction of the network of forts which make up the Entrenched Camp of Mestre in the years following 1883.

Our itinerary includes several of these structures, which are, however, quite distinct in their construction styles. The “first generation” forts – Fort Carpendo, Fort Tron and Fort Gazzera – are forts in the Prussian, or Tunkler style, polygonal structures designed to conceal themselves in the environment and so here they blend into a natural background which even today is still very similar to the original.

On the threshold of the First World War, however, it seemed as if the concept had been made redundant by the development of artillery. In fact, the other forts of the Entrenched Camp included in this tour – Fort Mazzacapo and Fort Poerio – are very different structures, being lower, more compact and built of concrete, originally surrounded by a moat.

Ideally, this itinerary should end with a visit to one of the oldest fortresses, the San Felice Fortress (Chioggia), built over the sea in the days of the Most Serene Republic.

The forts are today connected by a series of cycle paths which cross the lagoon landscape between woods, parks and canals. These ancient structures, only partly open to visitors, are run by organisations and volunteers, who organise events and guided visits from time to time.

The best starting point is Fort Marghera, the focal point of the Fortified Camp of Mestre, and the meeting point for all the transport routes which link Mestre to Venice and to the lagoon and so is easily accessible.

The fort is managed today by the Fort Marghera Foundation, founded by the Comune of Venice. It is located in a public park which hosts meetings and cultural events, in an ancient town which works with the Venice Biennale and other institutions. There is no lack of restaurants where dishes inspired by the flavours and traditions of the local area can be enjoyed.

The route follows a beautiful cycle path through the landscape, which soon transforms into a wide path in open countryside. From here, you can reach Fort Carpenedo, perhaps the best preserved part of the original nucleus of the Entrenched Fort of Mestre. It is also a fort on the Prussian model, conceived to fit in with the surrounding environment and to blend in with it, especially the front section. It is reached from the rear, which did not have to be concealed from the enemy. First you cross a bridge (originally a drawbridge) which passes under a grand, commemorative gate, an impressive sight, and a feature common to all the forts of this type. These different approaches all lead on to a single, 350-metre long “corridor”, which traverses the entire structure. When visits to the fort are permitted, be sure not to miss the guided tour, which offers a real immersion in the past, re-creating the sights and sounds of earlier times with the greatest attention to detail.

Along the path around Fort Carpenedo there are possibilities for a whole range of surprising encounters with nature. There are numerous species of birds to be seen, especially during the spring and autumn migratory seasons.

The cycle route continues, first through the peaceful green of the Mestre Wood, before reaching the Carpenedo Wood and turning in the direction of Fort Gazzera and Fort Mezzacapo.
Fort Mezzacapo forms part of the early twentieth-century Entrenched Fort complex. Today it is a lively and active place, with a full programme of events and celebrations. It also contains a museum and the Art Circuit, a kilometre-long installation of sculptures, which create a wonderful walk.

Fort Gazzera, the oldest of the three, closely-associated forts of Carpenedo, is only a short distance away. It has a beautiful – and very popular – picnic area and a programme of events, mostly with an especially local focus.

The itinerary now turns to the south, extending as far as the evocatively beautiful area of Riviera del Brenta. At Fort Tron, nature has regained the upper hand, giving the area a wild fascination. This area has also become a nature reserve where you can explore the concrete emplacements, out of which many shrubs are now growing, and wander among the ancient rooms broken down by time, glimpsing natural vistas of rare beauty.

Fort Poerio, at Oriago di Mira, on the other hand, is perfect for a trip with children. It has a beautifully kept park, with play equipment, a barbecue and picnic area. The inside is not open to visitors.

The itinerary finishes with a longer section heading to Chioggia. To enjoy further explorations in this area, which has so much to offer those who enjoy nature, we recommend the second part of the Lagoons and Sandbars itinerary, Fusina, Giare and Lusenza Lagoon, or a combination of a tour of the forts with this itinerary. In either case, we recommend that you finish your tour with a visit to the Fort San Felice Battery and to Fort San Felice, in the port of Chioggia.

The landscape in this area is different; the fortress, surrounded by the sea, is linked to the land by an embankment. The history of San Felice goes back further in time than the Austrian forts, designed by the Prussians. Built between the 14th and 18th centuries, it was part of the defensive system of forts developed by the Serenissima to defend the city from the sea. Seen from above, the island looks like a five-pointed star, a strategic form which allowed for some control of both the sea and the lagoon, as well as protecting it from storm surges.

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